The first time I saw this sewing technique for a mitered placket it BLEW MY MIND!!!! Obviously, I wasn’t alone because the video I posted went insane.
This sped up, 1 minute video was actually filmed in under two and half minutes! So this really is a fast AF placket technique. I know what you’re thinking,
“This is a lot to digest for such a life changing sewing video”
...and so I decided to slow things down and write up a blog post showing the tutorial with photographs for ya.
First things first, let’s take a hot minute and talk about the Miter Placket and it’s parts. Also known as a tailored placket, this badass bit of sewing is mostly seen on tailored men’s shirts along the sleeve cuff but it’s also used in women’s and children's wear too. It’s a great finish for a more traditional sleeve cuff but it can be used where any opening or venting might be needed, such as a neckline or even side seam vent. Tailors often call the top, overlapping pattern piece, The Gauntlet (what a cool name, huh?!) and the narrow binding, The Underband.
To make your life a little easier, I went ahead and developed a simple miter placket pattern for you. You can find it here. Great thing about this free placket pattern is that it can be applied to any project that might beckon a placket! No matter where you might find a place on your garment the steps to stitch this placket will be the same.
I should also mention… this technique is good for any mitered placket pattern with a similar shape. So keep on scrolling down and check out the Fast AF Mitered Placket Tutorial.
Step 1: Download that freebie Miter Placket Pattern. You can find it here…
Step 2: Use the pattern to cut out your fabric and interfacing. You don’t have to use interfacing but traditionally in lighter fabrics it’s recommended.
If you are putting plackets on sleeves, make sure you cut 2 of each piece, mirroring the Gauntlet - Overband pieces.
Step 3: Cut a straight line into the main fabric that you are placing the placket into the same length as the Binding - Underband.
Step 4: Pre-press both the Gauntlet - Overband and the Binding - Underband, using the seam allowance on the pattern pieces. Pressing beforehand is key to sewing this fast AF!
Step 5: Along one of the short edges of the Binding - Underband, slice into the center crease by 1/4”
Step 6: Line up the cut line of the Binding - Underband to the WRONG SIDE of the main fabric at the bottom of its cut line.
Stitch across from the center of the binding (at the cut line) over to the folded edge.
***To make a RIGHT OPENING placket you will need to stitch the LEFT SIDE on this step.
To make a LEFT OPENING placket you will need to stitch the RIGHT SIDE on this step.***
Step 7: Flip up the Binding - Underband toward the main fabric’s edge.
Step 8: Wrap the Binding - Underband around and toward the RIGHT SIDE of the main fabric, over the cut line.
Step 9: Stitch down the open edge of the Binding - Underband.
Step 10: Place the Gauntlet - Overband piece along the opposite edge of the cut line to your main fabric, lining it along the Gauntlet’s seam allowance. Fold over the piece and ensure it sits on top and covers the Binding - Underband.
Step 11: Moving in the direction of the red arrow. Stitch around the Gauntlet - Overband.
When you do this make sure you are only sewing through the Binding - Underband along the top edge and not the entire length of the Gauntlet - Overband.
You are done!
Check out the back though… This is how it should look.
Time to pull out some scraps… with a little practice, I have zero doubt you can be sewing fast AF mitered plackets too.
Did this help? Still have a question? Let me me know! Leave a comment or send me an email. I want to get you stitching these with ease.