Adding Darts Pattern Tutorial - Sew & Tell Patterns

Updated: Oct 5, 2021

What's up Seamster?!

Let's Add Darts Where There are none.

A few weeks back I put out on my Instagram and Facebook asking what kind of tutorials you wanted to see from me.

You answered... I listened. And here we are with the first one! My girl, Bergen, asked

"How do you add darts where there are none?"

Follow along and I'll show you how to take a dart-less garment to dart-ed.

Where Can I Add Darts to a Garment?

This method is safe for both knitwear or woven patterns. Although, you're more likely to use it on a woven pattern because there's a higher chance of desiring more shaping in that kind of garment.

It's friendly to both, loose and fitted garments, but your dart size may change depending on fit – Don't be scared to play around with it to get the look you want.

Now, If you've ever done a Full Bust Adjustment aka FBA, then my fellow Seamster, this will look totally familiar... Let's get this party started!

Grab your front bodice, I'm using a fitted torso sloper similar to what a t-shirt would be drafted from. It's not super important what your front pattern piece looks like as long as it's dart-less the steps are the same.

Mark your Bust Point – aka the Apex

Have no bust point on your pattern?! Have no fear. Measure from your high shoulder, down to your fullest point. Then, measure between bust to bust points. Now, using the same high shoulder point on the pattern, measure down the same distance, parallel to the grain line. Adjust that point based on the 1/2 measurement of your bust to bust points and place a mark indicating your bust point.

Next your going to draw a few lines... First is a line from the Bust Point to the Armhole. This should land somewhere in the bottom half to 1/3 of the seam.