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Sew Along: Madcap Jacket Round Three

Updated: Apr 20, 2021

Damn... we made it! This is the final round of gossip for, personally, my favorite pattern, the Madcap Jacket.

Maybe you flew through these or perhaps it was a journey. Either way, I'm pleased you made it to the end.

Well, we finished off the last steps to the jacket's collar in Round 2 and now we are going to head into the sleeves!

Grab ahold of both your Upper and Under Sleeves. One at a time, match the sides of the Upper and Under sleeves together, with right sides facing each other. Stitch on down both those sides. When you finished the first one jump to the next and get those sides stitched up.

Don't freak out, but there isn't a front and back to these sleeves so it's not picky about which opening it goes into... as long as it's consensual.

...Yea... I couldn't resist.

So pick a Sleeve and pick a Sleeve Opening, place the right side of the sleeve to the right side of the jacket's opening. Give it a go and stitch around the sleeve opening. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Now, there's not a ton of ease built into this sleeve since it's knit and is meant to fit tight, so there's no need to baste across the top of the sleeve, instead I prefer to have the Sleeve Opening on top of the Sleeve when sewing... it will naturally pull the opening slightly and push the sleeve for a subtle ease.

Our last step is hemming the jacket! There are lots of ways to hemming and what type of hem you go with is totally dependent on your equipment and fabric. Check out my post here and see what methods I use to Back That Hem Up for knitwear...

Whatever hemming method you plan to pull off, these next steps are pretty similar. So follow along.

Starting from the bottom edge of the collar, turn up 1/2" and hem down the front slanted edge of the Jacket Front.

Now, starting in the back at the bottom ruffle, turn up 1/2" and hem along the back and front hem of the jacket. When you get to the corner you've previously stitched, tuck or trim any fabric that might hang past the Jacket's front edge and stitch all the way to the edge.

EDIT: If you are using a coverstitch then getting those perfect little corners can be a total pain in the ass! I've learned from experience you CAN get perfect corners it's just all in the order in which you stitch (it's similar to the order I sew in my rolled hem technique...) Here's the order in which you should stitch the hem!

Last of the hems is your sleeves, so turn those up 1/2" as well and hem them in the same manner you used on the jacket hem.

Now, you can finally steam that fantastic bitch of a jacket because you just finished!

Don't forget to send me all the pictures with you wearing this impulsive little piece of fashion... I want to see them all.

Tag it on instagram #madcapjacket and #sewandtellpatterns because I totally look for them!

Thanks for stitchin' along and stay tuned for more Pattern Gossip!


Did you miss the first two gossip rounds? Find them here and here!

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Jenn Barron

A pattern specialist, master seamster and digital badass. Jenn establishes a place where creativity, authenticity and sewing meet, helping make all the things so that you can  be you.

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