Sew Along: Madcap Jacket Round Two
Updated: Apr 20, 2021
What's up Seamsters! Glad you made it to the second round of my Madcap Jacket Pattern. I can't tell you enough how much I love this jacket and all it's unique details.
We left off finishing the back of our jacket and we are gonna get right to it with round two... are you ready?
Here we go!
Let's kick it off with grabbing our Side Front pieces.
Smash right sides together on both the Side Front and the Back Jacket and match along the sides. Get stitchin' down that glorious side seam.
Now, you know what's next... repeat for the other side seam.
Next, it's time to start working on the Collar. In the Madcap Jacket the Collar Facing is actually an Upper Collar in disguise and will be the part of the collar that is facing out. The Under Collar is built-in as part of the jacket's Side Front. This way we have a pretty simple collar attachment.
So, with your jacket Side Front pieces, place the right sides together along this stand seam of the "under collar" and stitch across.
This under collar is pulling a few duties and will be the shoulder seams too. It's going to attach to the back of the jacket at the shoulder seams, over the back neckline and then across the second shoulder seam. WTF? Don't worry, it sounds a bit confusing but I'm here to move you through it.
To make the corners turn easier, we are going to do a tight little straight-stitch just inside the seam allowance at each corner of the Side Front pieces. That 90º-ish angle near the collar stand is where you will need to make these little stitches. After you've stitched be sure to clip into the corner right up to your stitching.
This next step will essentially be sewn in one seam but you'll be lifting up your presser foot and turning the garment a couple times.
Match up Shoulder 1 of the Side Front to the Shoulder 1 on the Jacket Back, right sides together. Trust me, it will be much easier if you keep the Side Front on top while sewing. That way you can watch the clipped in areas are turning best and you won't get little puckers.
...Because pucker are for suckers.
Ok, so stitch across the first shoulder and stop, with the needle down, when you get to that clipped corner. Since the needle is down, you can lift your presser foot and turn the edge to follow the back neckline, without skipping any stitching. The under collar area should turn too, because you clipped into the corner, this area will open up and allow the fabric to turn easier.
Next, stitch across the back neckline, attaching the under collar. Make sure you are matching the collar seam to the notch at the center back neckline. I mean, I put a notch there for a reason...
Stop, again, with your needle in the down position when you reach the second clipped corner.
Almost Seamsters... Lift your presser foot one last time keeping the needle in the down position. Turn the seam and under collar once more, opening the clipped corner for ease and matching the Shoulder 2 edges.
Now, Stitch across the second shoulder seam.
Viola! Under collar is attached!
Here's what the right side of your jacket should look like after the Under Collar is attached. Pretty freakin' sweet right?
I know that collar business seemed tricky but you made it through! Now, let's finish up that collar entirely.
Pick up your Collar Facing. With right sides together, stitch across the center back at the collar stand.
Place the Collar facing along the Under Collar with right sides together.
Along the outer edge of the Collar, stitch that seam, attaching the Collar Facing to the Under Collar.
Time to do some top-stitching. On the Under Collar AKA Jacket Front top-stitch a skimpy 1/8" away from your seam. Now, while you are top-stitching, push the seam allowance underneath, catching it with your needle. This will help your Collar Facing roll better.
Now, don't wig out but this looks more confusing than it is... all you are doing is finishing the bottom edges of the Collar, but at the same time turning the raw edge of the collar back so you can top-stitch it down... all in one step.
Here we go. Flip the Collar Facing back over so that right sides of the jacket and facing are together (just like you did to sew it on.) The seam allowance you just top-stitched down will be pushed towards the back side.
Now with the Collar flipped, turn the raw edge of the Collar Facing back 1/2" (this is the seam allowance of your Facing) and stitch across the bottom edge of the Collar Facing and jacket Side Front, using 1/2" seam allowance, stopping at the edge of the facing.
Not too bad right?
Now let's turn the Collar Facing, flipping it right side out.
Grab something pointy (I use a knitting needle a lot) and push out that little corner you've created.
The seam allowance on your Collar Facing will automatically turn to the inside and the jacket hem will automatically turn up and inside your collar, leaving a nice clean corner to the front of your jacket.
So, I really hate to press anything before I'm done but if it's easier for you to press the seam allowance before the next step, go ahead. I won't judge you for pressing back the seam allowance to the Collar Facing. After pressing it back (or just tucking it under as you go... your choice,) you can top-stitch along the inside edge of the facing all the way around the neckline. Again I like to use a skimpy 1/8" top-stitch from the edge of my facing.
*** Quick Note: When you reach the back neckline, tuck the seam allowance that's attaching the Under Collar and the Back Neckline inside the Collar Facing. This will leave a nice clean edge there.
Hell yeah! Just like that you've completed the collar. It's probably the wildest part of the Madcap Jacket but I know you just killed it (in a good way;)
That's it for the gossip today. Stay tuned for the 3rd and final round of the Madcap Jacket Gossip Time.
Till next time Seamsters.
Ready for round three of the gossip? Find it here.
Did you miss round one? Here it is.