What's up Seamsters! Glad you made it to the second round of my Madcap Jacket Pattern. I can't tell you enough how much I love this jacket and all it's unique details.
We left off finishing the back of our jacket and we are gonna get right to it with round two... are you ready?
Here we go!
Let's kick it off with grabbing our Side Front pieces.
Smash right sides together on both the Side Front and the Back Jacket and match along the sides. Get stitchin' down that glorious side seam.
Now, you know what's next... repeat for the other side seam.
Next, it's time to start working on the Collar. In the Madcap Jacket the Collar Facing is actually an Upper Collar in disguise and will be the part of the collar that is facing out. The Under Collar is built-in as part of the jacket's Side Front. This way we have a pretty simple collar attachment.
So, with your jacket Side Front pieces, place the right sides together along this stand seam of the "under collar" and stitch across.
This under collar is pulling a few duties and will be the shoulder seams too. It's going to attach to the back of the jacket at the shoulder seams, over the back neckline and then across the second shoulder seam. WTF? Don't worry, it sounds a bit confusing but I'm here to move you through it.
To make the corners turn easier, we are going to do a tight little straight-stitch just inside the seam allowance at each corner of the Side Front pieces. That 90º-ish angle near the collar stand is where you will need to make these little stitches. After you've stitched be sure to clip into the corner right up to your stitching.
This next step will essentially be sewn in one seam but you'll be lifting up your presser foot and turning the garment a couple times.
Match up Shoulder 1 of the Side Front to the Shoulder 1 on the Jacket Back, right sides together. Trust me, it will be much easier if you keep the Side Front on top while sewing. That way you can watch the clipped in areas are turning best and you won't get little puckers.
...Because pucker are for suckers.